Indian India Indiana

From Chennai to Kochi, South India's temples, food and resorts leave guests asking for more.

Day 1

We arrived in Chennai after an easy 8-hour Emirates flight and were met by the Raintree Hotel staff. We then had an excellent dinner of kebabs at the sophisticated Roof Top restaurant of the hotel and soaked up the upper-class Chennai society.

Top tip: We stayed at the St Mary's Road branch of the Raintree.

Day 2

Akila, our guide from Storytrails, was waiting for us to finish our South Indian breakfast so we could begin our private tour of Mylapore in Old Chennai. We visited the Kapaleeshwar Temple, which dates back 400 years or so, and were enthralled by stories of why women whispered into Nandi the Bull's ear, why they tied sacred thread and toy cradles around trees considered holy and were even lucky enough to see some idols being brought out from their enclosures under great palanquins with great ceremony.

Top tip: Don't miss going to the back of the temple to take in the shoals of huge catfish! Also go for a lazy lunch to Tuscana, an Italian restaurant on Wallace Garden Road just off Khader Nawaz Khan Road (which has some very classy shops — think Tommy Hilfiger).

Day 3

Christopher, our driver, was ready to take us to Pondicherry (called "Pondy" by the locals) with a few detours!

Top tip and the first detour: Spend some time (and money) at the chic shopping complex at 85 Chamiers Road before heading out of Chennai. (They even have an eco café and a bookshop on the top floor.)

We included a quick stop at Dakshinchitra (South Indian crafts complex) and then had lunch at The Fisherman's Cove Hotel by the sea on the East Coast road — sublime prawn curry and local refreshments, even the kids were delighted to eat some home-made chicken and chips. We managed to make time for a quick stop for photos at Arjuna's Penance and the Shore Temple monuments before heading for Pondy.

Top tip: Buy a book and postcard of Arjuna's Penance from a local tout and try to spot all the aspects of this historic sculpture — the kids loved doing this.

Day 4

We enjoyed another South Indian breakfast on the terrace of our hotel, Maison Perumal (the House of Vishnu) in the Tamil quarter. This is a chic boutique hotel decorated with Indian historical prince prints and a bar full of retro Bollywood paraphernalia but the interiors and furnishings are French — a perfect blend of French and Tamil! There was no request that was too great for Dinu, the general manager of the hotel, who quickly became a friend, took us shopping and organised an erudite French-English-speaking guide for our trip to Auroville.

Top tip: Try the quiche or any food at the Auroville Café — it's better than many European equivalents. Refreshments that evening at Hotel De L'Orient preceded a delicious seafood dinner at Maison Perumal. Oh, I forgot — don't miss seeing Lakshmi the elephant at the town temple next to the women selling flowers.

Day 5

The long journey to Chettinad, specifically Kanadukathan, after a stop to take a look at the Big Temple at Thanjavur, led us to our next hotel, Visalam. Given as a dowry gift to Vishali, the daughter of a Chettiyar family, this has now been restored to an 11-bedroom Art Deco mansion hotel by CGH Earth. Do savour all the amazing meals served by the hotel — beetroot cutlets and Chettinad lamb are favourites with us now!

We spent an amazing day visiting mansions, seeing how sarees are woven and riding bikes — but the most mesmerising bit was the trip to the Athangadi tile factory, from where handmade tiles using Athangadi cement are sent to various parts of India. Many of the patterns I saw reminded me of hallways in Edwardian houses in England.

Oh, and you must swim in the cool swimming pool of the hotel.

Day 6

We couldn't head to Thekkady without paying homage to the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai. Moreover, as it was our wedding anniversary, we ended up doing the married-couple-blessing-thing with everyone else there! It was not an easy drive from there and we were grateful to our driver for insisting we get a guide for this temple, which was nominated for the ten wonders of the world. In Thekkady, we were hit by the cooler, greener, calmer surroundings and shivered in our summery, cotton clothes.

Day 7

The tour of the Spice Village at Thekkady with the Tiger Club leader was informative, fun-filled and free. Many know that pepper is the king of spices but did you know that cardamom is the queen?

Right from the fruit and vegetable gardens and the mushroom sheds to the recycled paper plant and the compost factory, there is only one word that describes all activities in this resort — "organic".

Top tip: Make sure you buy spices in bulk from the shops on the road outside the resort to take back home. Oh, and don't forget warmer clothes for this region.

Day 8

On to Kumarakom, Kerala's backwater city, and the Coconut Lagoon on Lake Vembanad. The children loved arriving at the reception by boat (or kettuvelam in Malayalam). We splashed about a bit and stayed at the pool villas. Don't miss the free early-morning yoga classes in an enclosure that has thin gauze netting for walls and views of the lake and a butterfly sanctuary. With the only sound being that of birds, how can one not feel calm?

Top tip: If there is anything you would like to eat that's not in the lunch buffet, the chefs will make it for you free of charge.

Day 9

The last stop was at an old converted shipyard, the Hotel Brunton Boatyard in Fort Kochi. Sightseeing in the old town was easy and a walk down the Old Jewish Quarter was interesting, especially because of its crafts shops and old temple. The best bit about Fort Kochi, however, was lunch at the Malabar House, an überchic boutique hotel.

Day 10

On the morning we were to take an Emirates flight back, I was impressed by how efficient the Kochi airport was!

New Day at ABA

From Oak Harbor, Ohio, Kenn writes: Readers of this blog will know that I’ve been very preoccupied for the last three months by the current situation at the American Birding Association. (In fact, I’ve been so preoccupied that the blog hasn’t been updated since the end of August.)

In early July, I was asked to be on the search committee for a new president / executive director for the ABA. This fine organization had just gone through some tough times, owing to a few bad decisions and a lot of bad luck. The previous president had been fired, the staff was upset about a variety of issues, membership had been declining, and the financial situation was going from bad to worse. Things were looking shaky for the ABA. But because this organization had done so much for me in the past, I agreed to try to help.

It has been a time-consuming and complicated process, as you might guess if you read the previous entries on this subject. But ultimately we had over a dozen serious applicants for the position, and four finalists who were all eminently qualified. At that point things got really difficult, because all four of the finalists were friends of mine, people I had known and respected for a long time. But after extensive interviews and discussions, the search committee came up with recommendations, and the ABA board of directors voted at the end of last week. As of today, they’re ready to announce the decision, and it’s just going up on the ABA website.

Ladies and gentlemen: Mr. Jeffrey A. Gordon, currently of Lewes, Delaware, soon to be in Colorado Springs at the ABA offices. I first met Jeff in the early 1990s, when he was a young naturalist and tour leader new on the scene, and we worked together teaching some intensive bird I.D. workshops set up through Victor Emanuel Nature Tours. A couple of years later, Jeff and I took a group of teenaged birders to Mexico, on the VENT / ABA sponsored Camp Cielo. Whether we were scoping sandpipers on the Texas coast or pursuing parrots in Mexican mountain forests, Jeff displayed a remarkable set of skills as a birder, organizer, teacher, and leader, and he had such a warm and engaging personality that everyone was drawn to him. I figured at the time that he was destined for great things.

In the years since, Jeff Gordon has become a popular speaker on the bird festival circuit, has written a very popular blog, has written many articles for Bird Watcher’s Digest and other publications, has been a major consultant to the Peterson Field Guide Series, has done innovative things with ecotourism and with new media such as podcasts and video, and has generally established himself as one of the leaders of the birding community in North America. And now he’s going to be the President of the American Birding Association. For more information you can go to the ABA’s website.

Congratulations, Jeff, and thanks to all of the fine people who helped with this process! There are still challenges to be met, but I'm confident that the birders will rally and that Jeff Gordon will lead ABA into a bright future.

Hari Raya in Alexandria Egypt

Alexandria in Egypt comes alive during Ramadan with fun, feasts and festivities Anna AbouZeid captures the spirit of Eid Al Fitr in Alexandria through words and pictures

From the moment I stepped off the aircraft and into the Egyptian port city of Alexandria, it was clear that although the Eid Al Fitr holiday was still three days away, Egyptians were already in the holiday spirit. Even the ordinarily stoic customs officer couldn't resist breaking into a huge smile as he wished me koli sana we enti tayeba, or season's greetings.

But there's an almost eerie hush on the streets during the fasting hours of Ramadan. You can drive to your destination in record time, without the usual honking of horns, loud music playing from taxi stereos and the traffic jams that characterise most Egyptian roads — which is something unusual for the city.

However, just before fitar (the Egyptian variation of iftar) — particularly in the days leading up to Eid Al Fitr — all that changes. The city wakes up and comes alive once again.

Lighting up the streets

As I drive down the corniche — the city's main road along the seaside — I see shopkeepers and café owners sweeping the sidewalks in front of their stores and pulling tables outside in preparation for the guests' arrival at sundown. Traditional Ramadan lanterns adorn the streets, hanging from trees and street lamps.

Making my way into the old-town market, my senses are captivated — by the sights, the sounds and especially the smells. Traditionally, Egyptians eat fish for the Eid Al Fitr feast. So as the first day approaches, fishmongers lay the day's catch over ice, waiting for those fasting to come and take their pick for the festival.

Once you hear the call to prayer ringing through the streets, you know it's time to end the fast and say prayers. But some people, maybe because they are stuck in traffic on their way home or do not have the money to prepare a fitar meal, rely on the generosity of neighbours to end their fast. Every neighbourhood has a corner where a well-to-do family sets up tables and chairs and provides a meal for the community to share. It doesn't matter if you are rich or poor — all are welcome.

The hush in the streets during the fasting hours of Ramadan is in stark contrast to the activity inside the homes of Muslims on the days before Eid. Cleaning up and ensuring everything is in order to receive guests is essential. New clothes are purchased but stay neatly tucked away in the closet until the Shawaal. Parents make sure they have money, or eideya, to give children during Eid so they can buy their favourite toys.

Sweet specials

As in the rest of the Islamic world, special sweets are served during the feast. In the final days of Ramadan, shops start selling the special ingredients required for the konafa — a vermicelli-like pastry made in Egypt with ricotta cheese and honey — my favourite.

Egyptians also prepare katayef — small pancakes filled with chopped nuts, which are folded, fried and drizzled with honey, a perfect combination of crunchy, warm and sweet. Women spend days in the kitchen, preparing ghurayeba and kahk — a childhood favourite of mine — special Eid cookies filled with dates or nuts and tossed in powdered sugar — most delicious when dipped in a glass of hot, sweet tea.

I left Alexandria after the last fitar of Ramadan — but not without my eideya, two boxes of kahk and ghurayeba baked by my aunts and a sense of warmth and fulfilment.

This is the true spirit of the season.

Teoh Beng Hock

I dont know about your guys but I am pretty sure MACC did a fuck up job for this case.

SUICIDE NOTES Found 2months after the death. Its just plain stupids

I am not sure who is the REAL head of MACC but he is sure stupid...


MAN... I have enough of malaysia... I QUIT!

For what it's worth...

A message from Kimberly: I have watched in awe as Kenn and many others navigated some turbulent seas to get the ABA on track. Kenn and I have had some "lively" discussions about the issue, ; ) and while I was not directly involved in the process of searching for the new Executive Director (I'm officially casting my vote for axing the term "President"), I have been actively engaged in studying the whole process and have learned a great deal from it. Thank you to everyone for the outpouring of support for the ABA---and for Kenn. If the dude wasn't so determined to write field guides that help people discover and enjoy nature (and so wonderful at it, I might add!), I'd encourage him to take the job himself. But, whomever the next ED is, I'm sure they can count on Kenn as a resource and I certainly hope that they will do just that.

So, consider this my "shout out" to Kenn and all those who are working hard to get the ABA back on its feet. I'd especially like to thank the staff at ABA for hanging on in spite of the rough seas that have threatened to drown out all the solid things they're continuing to accomplish.

And here's a little something to remind us all of why the effectiveness/success of every bird and conservation organization is worth working hard for.

Lincoln Sparrow

hope for the future of birds and birding

Magnolia Warbler

Loggerhead Shrike

Bay-breasted Warbler

Pied-billed Grebe

ABA: Let's Look Forward

From Oak Harbor, Ohio, Kenn writes: Six weeks have passed since Dick Ashford, chair of the board of the American Birding Association (ABA), contacted me out of the blue and asked me to be on the search committee for ABA’s next Executive Director (or President, as the position is currently called). Being part of the search has been far more time-consuming than I had expected initially, but it has given me some rewarding insights as well.

Shortly after getting involved, I wrote about the ABA’s situation on this blog, and the outpouring of comments was remarkable -- highly detailed comments came in from more than 40 people, including no fewer than seven former ABA board members and other well-known leaders of the North American birding community. During the same time period, I had conversations with most of the current ABA staff, dedicated long-term members of the organization, and many others.

After the first couple of weeks my outlook on ABA’s future was not very positive, for three reasons:

1. Many of the comments -- including some from birders with detailed knowledge of ABA’s history -- were very negative.

2. Some aspects of the current situation were worse than I had realized.

3. At first there were very few applicants for the President position, leading me to wonder if the best candidates had been scared off by the situation or by the rhetoric about it.

But as I said, that was just my initial outlook. As things have developed, I’m now seeing a much more positive picture and a much brighter future for the American Birding Association. These are the things that have changed my perspective:

1. Even in the midst of intense outside criticism, the ABA board of directors has continued to do its job. While some harsh critics were calling for the resignation of the entire board, several board members continued to work behind the scenes to deal with current problems and move the organization forward.

2. Although there have been few official responses, the ABA board of directors has been paying close attention to the ongoing discussion. Case in point: several people raised questions about the ABA bylaws, so board chair Dick Ashford established a committee to review these bylaws. The committee, chaired by Lynn Barber, includes staff and board representatives, plus outside individuals -- such as Rick Wright, who had criticized the bylaws in the first place. This is clearly a case of listening to the concerns of critics rather than shutting them out.

3. The professional staff of ABA has continued to do a superb job. The upheaval and uncertainty of recent months have affected them more than anyone, but they continue to put out wonderful publications and carry out worthwhile programs. These dedicated and talented people represent a major asset for the organization.

4. Although I’m not at liberty to discuss what I know about this, there are some positive changes in the works regarding the infrastructure of the organization, including the workings of the board of directors. The board recognizes its own problems and is quietly but actively working to correct them.

5. Finally, I am tremendously encouraged by the fact that several highly qualified individuals have applied for the ABA President position. At first I was worried that no one would apply, but fortunately that turns out not to be an issue, and ABA has the luxury of trying to make the best choice from among several very strong candidates.

And it is energizing to read the comments from the leading candidates. They’re all aware of the significant challenges in the short term, but they are all brimming with optimism as they look at the extraordinary potential of the organization. They see that there is a huge role for the American Birding Association to play, serving to promote birding, to advocate for birding, to provide a strong voice for the whole community of birders. To read their comments, the glass isn’t just half full, it’s overflowing with potential. That’s the kind of attitude that we need as we go forward.

I respect everyone’s opinions, and I recognize that some long-term ABA members have a right to be angry about some recent missteps. But as for myself, I prefer to look forward and to focus on the amazing possibilities that still lie ahead. I’m optimistic that within a few months we’ll be looking forward confidently to a bright future for the ABA.

Incidentally, I’m not alone in this attitude. When I had this piece mostly drafted, I ran across two very recent blog posts that are well worth reading. Rick Wright at Aimophila Adventures wrote about the qualities he would like to see in the next ABA President -- a consideration that wouldn’t be necessary if the organization had no future. The essay is here.

Over at The Drinking Bird blog, the ever insightful Nathan Swick has a very thoughtful essay about the online conversation that developed this summer over the ABA’s situation. Nate makes the point that this conversation was significant in several ways: not only did it prove that a lot of people were interested in the ABA, not only did a lot of ideas come out of it, but the very nature and format of the online discussion served as a demonstration of the ways that ABA can communicate and act in the modern birding community. This must-read essay is here.

The American Birding Association was very important to me when I was a kid birder -- I was an ABA member long before I had a driver’s license. I’m not a kid any more, but I’m still an eager ABA birder. Now I’m looking ahead to the ABA’s 50th-anniversary bash in the year 2019 -- it ought to be a doozy. I’ll hope to see you there!

ABA: Inclusiveness

Mallard on the park pond, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher at the migrant trap, Wandering Albatross over the Drake Passage: would you enjoy looking at any of these birds? If so, you're a good birder.

From Oak Harbor, Ohio, Kenn writes: The intense discussions this summer regarding the future of the American Birding Association (ABA) have led some people to question just who the organization should be for. Predictably, a few have suggested that it should be a group designed for "good birders." I have strong opinions about that idea, I’ve expressed them in the past in other settings, and I want to repeat them here.

Forgive me if it seems immodest for me to quote from myself. But I wrote something a long time ago that still seems relevant:

"Birding is something that we do for enjoyment; so if you enjoy it, you’re a good birder. If you enjoy it a lot, you’re a great birder."

I wrote that back in the 1980s, and apparently it rang a bell with some people. The editors of British Birds were kind enough to quote it in their fine magazine. Roger Tory Peterson quoted it in the introduction to the 1990 edition of his Field Guide to Western Birds. (Peterson had been my lifelong role model, and you can imagine what a thrill it was to be quoted by my own hero, the man who was the world’s most influential birder at the time.) Later I used this same phrase in the introduction to my own Kaufman Field Guide to Birds of North America. So the thought has been out there for a while, but I wanted to repeat it.

Birding is something that we do for enjoyment, so if you enjoy it, you’re a good birder. If you enjoy it a lot, you’re a great birder. I think the American Birding Association will need to adopt that attitude as they go forward. Become a group for all those good birders -- for everyone who enjoys it -- and try to make them into great birders by helping them to enjoy it even more. In fact, the ABA could claim to have some initial ownership of the idea, because I first thought of it after taking part in a panel discussion at an ABA convention. I wrote it in a letter to Jim Tucker, who was then still the executive director of ABA, and he liked it enough that he printed it in Birding magazine as a letter to the editor. So it first saw the light of day in ABA’s magazine.

Do you enjoy birding? If your answer is "yes," it doesn’t matter whether you’re watching the finches in the back yard or trekking off to Borneo to look for Bristleheads, you’re one of us. You’re a good birder. I hope the American Birding Association will make a strong comeback and offer an enhanced experience to all of us.